In photography, the "exposure triangle" is the interplay between the available controls on exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and sensor sensitivity (ISO). Each can increase or decrease the amount of light used to create the exposure. There's usually only plus-or-minus a few stops of leeway (depending the sensor) to preserve the full dynamic range. But given that you need a certain amount of light to hit your sensor, you have many combinations of shutter speed, aperture and ISO to choose from. In general, you want your ISO to be at your camera's most sensitive value. For example, my Sony A7R V camera has a base ISO of 100. This will provide the largest [color depth and dynamic range](https://www.dxomark.com/sony-a7r-v-sensor-test/) [DXOMark](https://www.dxomark.com/category/camera-reviews/) is a good resource for a variety of sensors. For the highest quality images, you've not locked in your ISO-- typically at 100. So the real trade-off comes down to aperture and shutter-speed. Slow shutter speed is perhaps the most common cause of blurry shots, so if you're looking for a classically "good" image, you need to keep the shutter speed faster than a baseline for your lens. This will depend on the amount of stabilization in your lens and/or camera body, as well as your skill at holding the camera steady while shooting. The classic rule-of-thumb is that you shouldn't be slower than the reciprocal of your lens' focal length, e.g., a 50mm lens should be shot faster than 1/50th of a second. Modern bodies will allow you shot much slower (perhaps several stops), but being accelerometer-based, they do nothing to compensate for motion in your subject, so the old reciprocal rule is still a good guideline.